Jumbo 1/2 Lb. Block Sal-Ammoniac
Soldering Iron Tip Cleaner!
Used for cleaning & re-tinning iron clad soldering iron tips.
Proper application helps your soldering iron work faster and better. PLUS keeps a nice TIN coat on Iron Tip to help it last longer as a Tinning Block, by adding a bead of your solder to the top.
Solder won’t stick to an oxidized soldering tip!
Soldering Iron Tip Care
FIRST here are a couple of very important tips for caring for that soldering iron tip. It is ESPECIALLY important if you use LEAD FREE SOLDER. Lead free is extra tough on tips, because it’s all METAL vs. a Lead based solder (lead is a lot softer).
1. Re-tin tip regularly. Using a Sal Ammoniac Block. Melt some of your solder on top & press hot iron tip into that. This puts a fresh coat of tin on your tip.
2. Wipe with wet rag. Don’t use a more corrosive scrubber, as it will only break down the tip faster.
3. NO dipping of tip into FLUX. This works but is very harsh on tips and so not a good practice.
4. Remove your tip occasionally so it doesn’t become stuck. Because inside the barrel corrosives can build up and will eventually freeze your tip in there.
Most iron tips today are a copper core surrounded by iron, hence the term ‘iron clad’ that is then nickel or chrome plated. Because solder won’t stick to nickel or chrome the plating on the chisel end of the tip is removed to expose the iron cladding. Solder does stick to iron. To keep the tip from rusting you must keep it coated with a layer of tin, hence the term tinning and why solders used in stained glass are a mixture of tin and other metals. It will ensure that you are receiving the maximum heat at the tip surface.