*page under construction*
How to Solder Like a Pro with Trouble Shooting
Mosaic Instructions and Tips
Tips on Adhesives
How to Etch Glass
How to Attach a Jump Ring
Box Making Tips
How to Make a 3D Glass Bevel House
How to Make a 3D Glass Bevel Triangle
Easy Beginner Project: Making a Diamond Bevel Star/Snowflake
No Solder Pendant Instructions/ Tutorial
* Interested in a PRIVATE class on stained glass or jewelry pendants? Are you in the Four Corners Area? Click to Learn more! *
There are BLACK SPECKS in the solder and on the iron tip?!
even though the tip may look black . . .
If when you wipe & re-tin you see all silver, it’s good.It’s BAD if when you do those steps and you see missing metal, holes, etc.
Here’s exactly what I instruct everyone to do:
1. Fold a wet rag into a small square so you have loads of folds to stick the Hot Tip inside folds regularly. I find the wet rag works great & there are many folds to go inside as you are soldering.
2. Occasional press hot tip on the sal block with some solder already on top. Pressing the hot tip into that solder ball on top of the block is re-tinning your tip
3. Wipe again.
There will always be a little bit of black specks that can slip into the solder as you are soldering but to minimize the black specks use 0000 super super super fine steel wool on the finished solder. This will not scratch the glass or solder, but will clean it wonderfully!
As long as you are doing those steps above the solder will be cleaner AND the Iron Tip will last longer.
HEAT MOISTURE ISSUES BETWEEN GLASS
So the foil not sticking well enough…
Here are the TOP 3 REASONS this could happen:
1. Glass is not clean. Clean glass with alcohol before foiling. THIS eliminates any oils (mainly from our hands).
2. Not burnishing enough OR (believe it or not) burnishing TOO MUCH. Going over & over AND OVER pressing that foil, can destroy the adhesive backing.
3. Soldering TOO much. Going over AND OVER foil with the Soldering Iron Tip trying to get that PERFECT solder.
There are many who’ve dealt with the seepage (water marks or photo / art damage) issues after soldering. I’ve gotten great answers from several, but the trick is for you and I to figure out what’s up with your particular situation. These will help guide us.
Holly said this: “I used a Krylon photo DULLING SPRAY on my photos and I am able to make them without the splotches under the glass.”
Alistair and Kathy said this: “Heavier paper stock and quicker soldering solved the issue of heat transfer”
Courney said this: “If I use Kodak Matte Photo paper it works perfectly, anything else would cause heat transference for me.
Shireen said this: “I use Matte card stock, because I’ve found the pictures were adhering themselves to the glass (heat transference) . I found that what works too is lifting the glass up from the image with the tiniest of rhinesontes (pre-glued) which can be purchased through scrapbook stores. You can either put them in the corner where the copper tape and solder will cover them or make them a part of the design. Glitter is another option.”
Kim said this: “I use a heavier photo stock. I know when I use my epoxy spray sealer to protect picture so ink won’t smear.”
HOW TO MAKE SHADOW BOXES
To make the “shadow box” look with keys, rhinestones, jewels, etc. use 1/2 inch wide foil (Black back looks best). It’s super easy & just takes practice. You put 2 pieces of glass together with whatever object you’d like in the center balanced between the glass.
Foiling with the wide 1/2 inch foil you’ll be able to get it held together quickly by Folding Foil over the glass edge as soon as you begin sticking it down. Start with a smaller object that’s not as bulky to practice. You’ll get the idea.
Flux & solder.
(G2) Generation 2 Bottle cutter YouTube links
2 FREE links to YouTube Videos you can watch on how to use this cutter:
NEXT VIDEO link claims “This is the ONLY glass cutting method that cuts bottles perfect”
Private Glass Art Lessons by Jodie
Classes are held in your own home! (You must have a work space! kitchen table or like.)
Only available in a 3 Hour radius of Durango, CO.
Travel fee: 20$ per hour
All tools will be provided, including safety equipment. (To protect your home and furniture too!)
Equipment Kits available for purchase with lesson.
Want to host a party? Max of 6 People. Initial Price of class + HALF cost for every other person. (example: Jewelry class with 3 people would be $75+$37.5+$37.5=$150 (+ cost of travel))
Jewelry Pendant Class
Class Length: 2 – 3 Hours
Learn to solder an image between two pieces of glass using copper foil tape and LEAD FREE solder plus attach a jump ring.
Stained Glass Heart or Bevel Star Class (no glass cutting)
Class Length: 1.5 to 2.5 Hours
Learn to solder a clear 6 pointed bevel star, or a clear beveled heart using copper foil tape and solder.
Stained Glass Suncatcher Class (glass cutting)
Class Length:4 – 5 Hours (30 minute meal break necessary)
Learn to cut glass into simple shapes to make a custom suncatcher. Then learn how to use the grinder, soldering iron, and copper foil to complete the suncatcher piece. (Not a leading/came class)
Contact Jodie by email for questions, more information, or to schedule: